Monday, July 06, 2009

always ask..

Beginnings are worst times. Which of the eleven trails , all heading in about the right direction, is the right one ? Or just run it staright from the map ..
Asking gives me everything I need to know from an old lady plus an offer of second breakfast.

Going up I have moments of doubts : why leave the green valley for another rock strewn pass. Lokking down at my feet i just see rubble. Lifting my head I se the shocking transformations from greay to purple to pink. Big rhubarby leaves hanging from sheer sides , with growths I suddenly realize are to become the white , round leaves that comes out so beautiful onthe Himachali hats. The smell of not quite mint , not quite juniper I associate with Spiti. Big bees with jet black wings, thumb thick bodies and narrow bands of yellow.

Around 3900, after it has started to get really steep , I gett buffed by high winds which I take as a good sign : surely the pas must be really near. It comes out as not 3950 as on my map , but 3986 according to the GPS. At the time it felt important.

Nice lhatse with prayer flags ... that looks off in some way. Coming closer I see flags with triangular form, no images and names .. european names. After a short moment of disbelief the knife comes out .

Later i bring it up in Rizong monastery and gets a friendly tap on the shoulder " Don't worry , this is not a problem. " This is of course right in the religious perspective : nothing becomes undone by covering the lhatse , but does remain a problem for the communities involved , both travellers and Ladakhis.


Sirensongs: Indologist At Large said...

Hi Vistet: First, your comment letter was so interesting on my blog - may i repost it as a blog with your name as a guest?
-second: Are you in Ladakh-Rizong now? I was just thinking the name Rizong yesterday. I am headed there at month's end, will you still be around?
You always have such good posts and information, on IndiaMike and elsewhere. Would be great to meet.

vistet said...

I´d be happy/honored to see the comment thing reposted - I´m a great fan of your blog , ever since you made the music stop in Boudha.

Wish I was still around in Ladakh ,it would be great to meet , but I´m back hugging the Arctic Circle at home. We have mosquitoes , and can afford to be nice to them.

Will up/backdate my blog in the coming days , doing a lot of of night shifts and loading photos on my new lappie at present.