Wednesday, October 26, 2005

Flowing around the mandala

Back from a couple of hours at Boudanath, my refuge from the commersialised existence in Thamel , where I ... sleep.
The Boudanath stupa is gigantic and minimalistic at the same time. No markers for the different directions , the same watchful eye in all four directions. A three-dimensional mandala. And the people flowing endlessly around it in a rapid , but unhurried way.
For some reason I come to think of the Nepali ghazal " life is a river".

Today I walked the outermost circle of the stupa , which is very easy to miss, just inside the enclosing wall. Triangalur patches with potted trees and shrubs (again, the forest theme) and boards where people do chaks : full-length prostrations. Rough boards with a sheen alog the edges where the cloth "mittens" hit the board as they strech out. Talk with a Amdowa monk , sharing the few common English and Tibetan words : Nga pö yin .. Aaah , pö..

Will try to upload some pics before it's time to board the next jeep.


Fredrik Valham said...

Tashi delek!

Tack för erbjudandet! Jag har skickat ett mail till min faster. Hon hör säkert av sig snart om det skulle vara något hon behöver.

Visst är det magnifikt i Bhodanath! Det är väl världens största stupa, så vitt jag vet? Jag köpte en mandala i en av butikerna där, med "medicine buddha". Vart i Thamel bord du?

Jag kan rekommendera "pumpernicel cafe" om du känner för litet västerländsk mat. Prova bagel med cream cheese och red onion. En höjdare när man ätit dalbath för länge :)

Hur länge blir du borta?

Vi hörs!


vistet said...

Well, I was starting to have the rice heaves just before arriving in Ktm , soI've been splurging .. sleeping in a place with sheets ... and paper in the loo (!)(it's called hotel, I've been told).
Yesterday I had Everest beer (with a badly framed of the classic photo of Tenzing, making it appear as the British flag was on top) and delicious apple pie , looking down on the Boudnath stupa & kora.
I'll be back in Kathmandu on the 8th, flying out of Delhi on the 11th.